"Surfing is my exercise and my therapy, my inspiration and my distraction, and the single biggest influence in my life.

 

But it's not all about the waves, it's about being away from the rat race and being in the moment.

 

The walk into nature, the paddle out, the waiting for a set, they're all integral parts of the experience, and the waves are just the frosting on the cake."

-Tom Modugno