"Surfing is my refuge. Which is kinda funny because I surf one of the most crowded spots on the coast!

 

Even so, surfing is a solace to my heart, it brightens my spirit, it refreshes my mind, it challenges my body, and it connects me to my water tribe.

 

It coerces me out of bed in the dark before dawn. It sends me into dreamtime steeped in the ocean’s rhythms at day’s end.

 

To me, surfing is the great leveler: it brings together a huge variety of people who, through sometimes bumpy encounters, together share this love of wave riding."  

- Heather Tiddens