Gerupuk_Homestay,_Indonesia_-_Oliver_Sjö
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DeSoto Brown

Bishop Museum historian
www.bishopmuseum.org

Cover of “Pace” magazine

January 1967

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The USA – and many other countries as well – went through tumultuous times in the late 1960s.

 

Led by increasing protests against young men being drafted to fight in the Vietnam War, the larger rejection of society’s established values and morals was dramatic, and when this magazine was published the upheaval was escalating.

 

One conservative response to this change was a choral group of cheerful, clean-cut young adults called “Up With People!” who toured the country giving upbeat singing concerts.

In addition to this “Pace” magazine, there was also a Hollywood musical film to help spread the positive message.

The surfer on the cover is illustrating a story with the odd title of “Hawaii: America’s Asian State”.

 

Notice also the reference to “the man behind the Viet Cong” (presumably Ho Chi Minh, the leader of North Vietnam and the enemy being fought by the USA) as well as the major question, “Which Way America 1967?”

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Pacific Longboarder

Australian Magazine

pacificlongboarder.com

Queens, Waikiki | Surfing in Hawaii | Kelia Moniz, Kai Sallas, Kaniela Stewart and more!

www.pacificlongboarder.com/news/Last-day-of-October-Queens-with-the-ATeam-Kelia-Moniz-Kai-Sallas-Kaniela-Stewart

Video from Dans Surf Videos. 

Music by JNSN - “Favela”

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Sandcastle Classic 

Ocean Beach, San Francisco
Sat., Nov. 3, 2018

Leap is the organization that creates this annual sandcastle event. To know more about their mission, go to:
www.leaparts.org/sandcastle

​If you need additional information please contact
Samee Sheikh at samee@leaparts.org

San Francisco Hand Beach Biron
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The Surf Network
the largest collection of surf video online
www.thesurfnetwork.com

North of the Sun (2012)

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Details

Synosis

Inge Wegge and Jorn Ranum spent nine months of cold, Norwegian winter in the isolated and uninhabited bay of a remote, arctic island by the coast of Northern-Norway, facing nothing but the vast Atlantic Ocean.

 

There they built a cabin out of driftwood and other cast-off materials that washed up on shore, and ate expired food the stores would otherwise have thrown away.

But the boys brought with them two items of utmost importance: Their surfboards - perhaps their biggest motivation for the arctic adventure. Because the remote bay holds a well kept secret Some of the worlds finest surfing waves...

**Presented with English Subtitles**

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Excerpt from 'North of the Sun' (2012) |​ ​Courtesy of Opper Films 

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Glenn Hening

Founder of the Surfrider Foundation
& co-founder of the Groundswell Society

Book | Waves of Warning

Chapter 24 - Surfsailing the Agulhas”

Summary
Off the coast of South Africa there is a current that runs from east to west called the Agulhas Current. And when there is a strong swell coming in the other direction, one of the most powerful wave zones on earth is created.

The open ocean swells meet the current to create steep waves 40 to 100 feet high. It would be a surfer’s dream - if you had a craft to ride these phenomenal waves.

 

The Order of Southern Ocean Marinershas built such a craft, the Alba_Sword, to sail - and surf - around the Southern Ocean. And now L.J. Merrill and Jack Richards are in for a surf session unlike any they have ever experienced. 

They need OSOM to get to Ka’unuabefore Wavelife does, but for the moment the mariners sailing a small fleet of Alba_Swords have their own priorities. 

 

Download Chaprer

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Eliot Crowley

Photographer

www.eliotcrowley.com

Ned Bowler

What does surfing mean to you?

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Surfing is symmetry and form. It is shape and function. It is movement and celebration.

Surfing holds great mystery. The treasures are bountiful. Pure stoke for instance. Smiles of grandeur and awe inhabit those faces touched by surf both small and gigantic; not to mention fear!  

Surf is also all about sound and sight and touch. Looking over the horizon at increasing lines of swell undulating and arriving from swirling storms high in the Aleutians or lows off the coast of New Zealand has me giddy with goosebumps.

Touching the face as we glide; touching perfection. Listening to the sucking muffled vortex as your within has its profound effects too.  

I'm enthralled with all aspects of surfing. It makes us stronger.

It challenges us in profound ways; protocol, sharing, ego, pride, humility, breath and dexterity.

I honestly can say my life is fuller and richer from such surfing endeavors.Fellow surfers thank you!

Thank you for showing me that road less traveled and those cold star-encrusted nights waiting until dawn to put on a wet wetsuit.

I'll conspire with you soon again my shifty, tidal moon fetched partner.

I'll swoon in your embrace!

 

Ned Bowler

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Jim Kempton

President of California Surf Museum

surfmuseum.org

Book Release

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Book Details
8 x 9, hardcover  |  248 pages
$29.95  |  ISBN 978-1-945551-33-8  |  ebook available | Distributed by Consortium, www.cbsd.com

Book Sample 1|3

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Take your tastebuds on the trip of a lifetime!

Book Abstract
Jim Kempton has spent his life traveling and surfing the world, along the way learning to cook the world’s best beach loving dishes.

Now he’s sharing his vividly colorful, richly flavorful, and vibrantly healthful collection of recipes, along with stories of the best waves, markets, restaurants, adventures, and misadventures that he’s experienced—from Tahiti to Hawaii, the Basque Country to Indonesia, California to Mexico, Peru to Morocco, and beyond.

First We Surf, Then We Eat features a foreword by The Surfer’s Journal publisher Steve Pezman, a chef’s foreword by famed surfer/chef Raphael Lunetta, and photography by Bill Schildge, Jeff Divine, Art Brewer, and Tom Servais.

Jim's Bio
Jim Kempton is a lifelong surfer, cook, and writer. He’s been the editor and publisher of Surfer magazine; the director of Quiksilver’s Crossing Project, a boat that searched the world for the best surf breaks; the director of media for Billabong; and the owner of the former Margarita’s Village, an award-winning regional Mexican restaurant in San Clemente, California.

The San Clemente resident currently serves as the president of the California Surf Museum.

 

Book Sample 2|3

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Book Sample 3|3

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The Editor
An Academic Look

Suring in Hainan

Guibert et Taunay 2013 - The prime disse

The USA – and many other countries as well – went through tumultuous times in the late 1960s.

 

Led by increasing protests against young men being drafted to fight in the Vietnam War, the larger rejection of society’s established values and morals was dramatic, and when this magazine was published the upheaval was escalating.

 

One conservative response to this change was a choral group of cheerful, clean-cut young adults called “Up With People!” who toured the country giving upbeat singing concerts.

In addition to this “Pace” magazine, there was also a Hollywood musical film to help spread the positive message.

The surfer on the cover is illustrating a story with the odd title of “Hawaii: America’s Asian State”.

 

Notice also the reference to “the man behind the Viet Cong” (presumably Ho Chi Minh, the leader of North Vietnam and the enemy being fought by the USA) as well as the major question, “Which Way America 1967?”