Surfers of Santa Barbara
What does surfing mean to you?
Surfing is symmetry and form. It is shape and function. It is movement and celebration. Surfing holds great mystery. The treasures are bountiful. Pure stoke for instance.
Smiles of grandeur and awe inhabit those faces touched by surf both small and gigantic; not to mention fear!
Surf is also all about sound and sight and touch. Looking over the horizon at increasing lines of swell undulating and arriving from swirling storms high in the Aleutians or lows off the coast of New Zealand has me giddy with goosebumps.
Touching the face as we glide; touching perfection. Listening to the sucking muffled vortex as your within has its profound effects too.
I'm enthralled with all aspects of surfing. It makes us stronger. It challenges us in profound ways; protocol, sharing, ego, pride, humility, breath and dexterity. I honestly can say my life is fuller and richer from such surfing endeavors.
Fellow surfers thank you! Thank you for showing me that road less traveled and those cold star-encrusted nights waiting until dawn to put on a wet wetsuit. I'll conspire with you soon again my shifty, tidal moon fetched partner.
I'll swoon in your embrace!
- Ned Bowler