The ocean is a sanctuary that makes me feel alive and free. And surfing has me going back to it over and over again. It slows me down and keeps me in the moment.  

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The first thing I do each time I paddle out is realize I’m there… laying on my board, floating on the Pacific. And then I say a prayer of gratitude.

 

I love to study the water drops on my board, be close to seals, dolphins, and pelicans.

 

Surfing’s brought me some amazing friends too… true characters with big hearts.

 

What can be better than all that?

- Nancy Masse