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Forwarded by Matthieu SANTAL 



Dappa Legend of surf 72

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© Steve Wikings | A surfer from Narabeen's team in action

This is an out take from the award winning Legends of Surf 72 exhibition currently on show at the ANSM. Grant "Dappa" Oliver charging at the Smirnoff Pro (won by Queensland's Paul Neilsen) Haliewa. Great action shot by Steve Wilkings of one of Narrabeen's finest. The Narrabeen crew were well represented at the world titles in San Diego 1972 with Dappa, Simon Anderson, Terry Fitzgerald, Col Smith, Mark Warren and Tony "Wicka" Hardwick all representing. If you want to check out LOS72 you had better be quick, it will only be up for the next few weeks.

Written by Matthieu SANTAL 


Donald Takayama : Shaping Boards and Lives

The article discusses the idea of certain surfboards being "magical" and how this is determined by the effect they have on the rider. It explains that the surfboard's creator plays an important role in this and mentions Donald Takayama as a shaper who was known for making such "magic boards." The article describes Takayama's background and his legacy of designing surfboards that not only look good but also advance surfing performance. The article includes quotes from others 

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© Kevin Kinnear  | Donald competing in an Oceanside Longboard Surfing Club contest, Oceanside Pier

praising Takayama's skills as a shaper and a surfer. It concludes by stating that Takayama's influence on surfing led to him being recognized as one of the top surfers who changed the sport and his induction into the International Surfboard Builder Hall of Fame.

By Matthieu SANTAL 

One of the Best Cover Designs in Surfing Literature

SURF-RIDING ON THE CORNISH COAST By Ronald S. Funnell (1955)1955 edition of this rare classic on surfing in Great Britain, and one of the earliest printed books exclusively on surfing, first published in the now unobtainable 1934 edition as THE ART OF SURF-RIDING (and with a different cover design)

© Ronald S. Funnell  | Surf-riding on the cornish coast

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Did you know ? 

By Alexandre ABBADI

Two improbable spots where you can surf:

Rockaway Beach, New York

It is in the east of New York, in the district of Queens, that surfers from the Big Apple and elsewhere find themselves on this large sandy beach!

On sunny days, many New Yorkers come here to sunbathe and swim in the waters of the Atlantic... which some face with their surfboards all year round! It is not uncommon to see surfers in uniform and with their equipment in the metro. And for good reason: Rockaway Beach is the only beach in the city on which this activity is authorized

The artificial river Eisbach, in Munich, Germany

Literally “ice river”, the Eisbach is an artificial river that crosses the Englischer Garten in Munich. Its one meter high static wave makes it an unusual setting for seasoned surfers, right in the heart of the Bavarian capital! Sliding enthusiasts have flocked there since the creation of the river, a tributary of the Isar, in 1972, but the practice of surfing has only been officially authorized there for about ten years!

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© Aluxum | The River Eisbach spot | River Eisbach, Germany



Groundswell (2012) 
Chris Malloy


Groundswell is director Chris Malloy's short film follow-up to 180' SOUTH. Surfers Dan Malloy, Trevor Gordon and Pete Devries set sail on a 68 foot sailboat guided by the Raincoast Conservation Foundation into British Columbia's Great Bear Rainforest where a pipeline and oil tanker proposal looms. The team explores waves and a rainforest full of life while learning of the potential irreversible consequences of this project from local First Nations leaders. Groundswell beautifully and profoundly captures the spirit of this wild place and the passion of the Heiltsuk people who are committed to protecting it.

(Profits from the sale of this film are being donated to Raincoast Conservation Foundation).

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By Alexandre ABBADI

End of the Era

More than thirty years after starting his career, surfing legend Kelly Slater has set the date for his last wave. Eleven times world champion, the 51-year-old American wants to finish by participating for the first time in the Olympic Games, in 2024.

According to him, he would have a very good chance of winning a medal because the sport that will be used during the competitions corresponds very well to these strengths

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© William Bradburry | Ready for 2024 | Tahiti

Editorial choice

By Matthieu SANTAL 

Zach Weeler
Extraordinary photo shows the moment a cheeky dolphin almost HITS a surfer in the swell

Georgia Loney
Surfer dies at Margaret River Main Break despite ‘heroic’ efforts of those nearby

Youtube Channel : Surf Raw Files

Ashtyn Douglas-Rosa
Watch : Lauren Hill Dissects the Physics of Noseriding in Beautiful New Film

The last image

Olga Sinenkobo

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© Olga Sinenkobo | Perfect Life, 2020

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