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A Word

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Jeremy Lemarie

The editor of the Surf Blurb

A Photo from the Surf Exhibit in Bordeaux

Do you know the picture below?

I could not find the details of this picture on my files, neither in the exhibit catalogue.

Thank you for emailing me at

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Photo by Jeremy Lemarie taken at the Surf Exhibit in Bordeaux



French Religious Postcard, 1930s

Unlike today, France in the 1930s was not known for surfing. Despite the screening of the French movie made by Pathé brothers in 1911 "Le surfing, sport national des îles Hawaï" [Surfing, the national sport of Hawaii], the sport might still have been mostly unknown there.

Regardless, this postcard of surfing in Hawaii dates from that decade. Its purpose is not to promote surfing but instead to solicit contributions for the Catholic Church’s Sacred Hearts congregation mission. 

Catholic missions had been established in the Hawaiian Islands in the 19th century and a Sacred Hearts church and parochial school are still functioning today in Honolulu, so showing a photo of Hawaiian surfing could be a reference to this successful effort.

The photograph itself was taken for promotional purposes and can be found in other 1930s publications. It might have been distributed by the Hawaii Tourist Bureau for that purpose.

DeSoto Brown

The Historian of the Bishop Museum

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Geoff Cater

founder & admin of

Bob Evans

Bob Evans recalls his first visit to Queensland's Burleigh Heads with a team of surf lifesavers for the 1948 National championships.

Evans' recollections may not be completely accurate, the 1948 National championships were held in Sydney and on the Gold Coast two years later in April 1950.

Reported to be riding a 14-foot board in 1948-1950, John Windshuttle later found fame riding large waves at Manly's Fairy Bower as the captain of the Palm Beach surfboat.

A page devoted to surf music includes a report on the most recent import from California,The Stomp, a new rock-n-roll dance craze.

It appears that Evans predicted that the shapely wave of surf songs and sounds looks like running a long way before it hits the rocks.

The impact on rock-n-roll music on social dancing was radical, breaking the long convention in western society where the partners maintained physical contact, however minimal.

Similar to traditional tribal dance, these non-contact dances could also be performed solo.

At first, these were invariably linked to a recording with simple dance instructions, most famously Chubby Checker's the Twist.

Following in it's wake, the Stomp was just one of a plethora of dance crazes including the Mashed-Potato, the Swim, the Monkey and the Batusi, as performed on television by Batman and based on the Watusi.


A top competitor in the '48 titles "Bluey" Mayes swings through a traditional bottom turn on a glassy Burleigh Heads seven-footer | Courtesy of Geoff Cater

In November 1963, Australian recording artist Little Pattie had a top 2 hit with He's My Blonde Headed, Stompie Wompie, Real Gone Surfer Boy backed with Stompin' at Maroubra.

Following the negative publicity following a Stomp (at Avalon?) several Sydney councils rejected applications for similar events citing potential damage to their building's foundations.

By the mid-1960s, social dancing broke free from any sense of order, the only rule requiring the dancers to avoid collisions, and became a virtually unregulated form of self-expression.

Some attributed this trend to the popularity of more sophisticated dance music, others suggested the increasing use of psychotropic intoxicants

At the time, some historians of the art noted the influence of Isodora Duncan, who imagined she had traced dance to its roots as a sacred art.Her life was depicted in the 1968 film Isadora starring Vanessa Redgrave.


The requirement for dancers to avoid collisions was overturned around 1980 with the development of  moshing or slam dancing.

Also see
Clint: Sixties City- Dances


Corky Carroll: The Stomp, OCR, 2014.

For more, go to:

Pacific Longboarder

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Australian Magazine

Kassia Meador at home in California, 201

Vid from DAKINE. Music by Gerhard Feng, "Way Too Early For A Drink"

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The Surf Network
the largest collection of surf video online

Living the Stoke (2010)


Living the Stoke (2010)

Courtesy of Opper Films

Trailer of  Living the Stoke (2010) on Youtube


It was that time in life, when I needed to discover and surf waves that have never been ridden by few, if not none. Explore the company of old friends and make new ones journey the not so worn path of another company. The adventure that unfolded was sensational in all ways, consistent great waves with extraordinary people with a simple yet incredibly enviable life style all within a sub-tropical paradise. The team was ten close mates the craft of choice was the stand up the place was Papua New Guinea.


Surfers: Rob Pirie, Brett Williams, Dale Chapman, Ross Hassum, Adam McGuffie, Anthony Johnston, Rob Simpson
Duration: 46 minutes
Director: Rob Pirie
Studio: Von Piros Productions



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Jeremy Lemarie


Staying 'stoked': Surfing, ageing and post-youth identities

Note: Belinda Wheaton has published a lot on surfing, in the past two decades. She has been focusing on ageing surfers for th last three years or so, and provides insightful analyses. Highly recommended read.

Institutional or paid access


Surfing has consistently been framed as a youth focused, male-dominated sport and culture. Despite surfing’s ageing demographic, neither the ways in which age impacts on surfing identities and mobilities, nor older surfer’s experiences and subjectivities, has been given scholarly attention.

In this paper, I discuss research exploring the experiences and identities of middle-aged and older recreational male and female surfers in the south and south-west of England. The research illustrates that participation in surfing as a sport and lifestyle remains highly significant for some men and women through middle-age and into retirement. 

I consider the cultural barriers and challenges in dealing with a loss in physical performance through ageing, such as adaptations to their equipment, performance, and style, and the implications for how individuals negotiate bodily capital, space and identity.

Nonetheless, older surfers also embrace different ways of being a surfer which challenge some of the more exclusionary aspects of surfing identities. 

Theoretically the paper develops an intersectional approach to sporting identity that explicitly recognises and accounts for the contribution of age to social identity.

The research also contributes to the growing literature on physically active ‘post-youth’ leisure lifestyles, illustrating how shifting definitions of ageing have given ‘rise to new expectations, priorities and understandings’ of sporting lifestyles amongst those in middle age, and beyond.
Keywords: action sport, ageing, identity, lifestyle, post-youth, surfing


Editor's Pick

The surf classic ‘Gidget’ is 60 this year, and it remains the ‘absolute ultimate’

Heroic efforts of 'Duke' off Corona del Mar remembered

Museum of British Surfing – Fast Road to Surfing History

A New Surf Pool is Coming to Palm Desert: DSRT Surf

Excerpt from Vimeo: "The indigenous people who live along the Amazon River in Brazil have a word for the tidal bore that rushes in from the Atlantic Ocean. They call the wave Pororoca, which translates to “big roar.” You can actually hear it coming. That’s how loud and powerful it is. It’s risky to surf the Pororoca because it is full of debris as well as snakes and piranha. But surfer Serginho Laus has mastered what is one of the longest waves in the world."

Just Fun: One of those days that is just more fun than the rest

Surfing the Amazon River’s Endless Wave

The Last image

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David Pu'u

Surf Photographer

July 8, 2019

I have spent a bit of time learning cetacean behavioral patterns. Aside from technical study and water time, two of the most knowledgeable people I have met are Cinematographer Greg Huglin and the amazing Dean Bernal. Getting to work with each was remarkably enlightening and fun.

One day I answered the door to a film crew. A man introduced himself. Tyler Swain had called and asked me to speak with him. I had reluctantly agreed. We fell in together immediately, like two excited little kids, as we shared our ocean experiences.

Finally as we settled down to do the interview and sat face to face, he said: “You do not know who I am do you? “ Recognition dawned like a ship appearing in the fog, as I realized that he and Tyler had totally pranked me.

The interviewer was Jean-Marc Barr! I blurted out: “SOB! That film is my all time favorite! “ (The Big Blue) The interview was emotional and deep, as we discussed life in the Ocean. I am forever grateful for the community I get to be a part of. Salt water in our veins. It bonds us all. #davidpuuphotography


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