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Forwarded by Matthieu SANTAL 


A New Generation

There are points along the way, with the Australian surfing story, where radical shifts took place. Surfboards of wooden construction defined the first 50 years of surfing in Australia. But with the introduction of more modern lightweight (initially balsa and fibreglass then polyurethane and glass) boards, there was a sudden upswing of performance surfing in Australia, following the introduction of Malibu chip style surfboards in 1956. Some time back we were contacted by Liz who kindly sent us photos of her father’s surfboard shaped by Vic Tantau in 1957. The board was part of a new generation of equipment Australian surfers were riding. Vic Tantau had been inspired to start manufacturing this new generation of surfcraft after witnessing demonstrations of more modern boards by American lifeguards at Torquay. It is one of the key moments of 

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© Ian Wenham | Ian Scrimpton, Col Murano and Ian Wenham at Dickies Beach, Caloudra

Written by Matthieu SANTAL 

A cover of the Atlantic Surfer

Atlantic Surfer was started in Newquay by Aussie Greg Haythorpe in 1978. When Greg resigned John Conway took over the helm in 1980, and although the mag didn't last long, John Conway's new mag which he started in 1981, Wavelength, has gone on to be one of the tops and longest lasting British surf mags. Thanks to Graham for the cover shots.

On this cover, we find Ted Deerhurst in 1979, who was a British surfer. His best result was semi-finalist in the José Cuervo classic at big Sunset, Hawaii, in the same year. While he never made the top 100 in the professional rankings, he gained a reputation as "the most persistent and committed performer on the world circuit...a hero of never-say-die optimism. Deerhurst designed surfboards under the name Excalibur and set up the Excalibur Foundation to enable disabled and underprivileged children to go surfing.

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© Atlantic Surfer, Museum of British Surfing | Ted Deerhurst surfing a wave 

development in the Australian surfing story, traditional timber boards became outmoded, Malibus offered greater freedom and maneuverability, the boards also represented a huge cultural shift as surfers broke free of the regimentation of the Surf Life Saving Clubs and took off in search of surf. These pics are of Ian Wenham at Dickies Beach Caloundra, with friends Ian Scrimpton and Col Munro enjoying beach life and new more dynamic boards.


New exhibit : Under the Radar!


Forwarded by Matthieu SANTAL 

History is seldom fair and surfing is no exception. Over the past half century, the sport, industry, and media has largely been dominated by men. They sat as presidents of companies, organizers of contests and editors of magazines. Of course, there have been a few female exceptions, but in large part, women’s modern contribution to the sport, culture and lifestyle have flown “under the radar.” Shining light on the myriad of contributions from surfing’s unsung female heroes, history may not always be fair, but thanks to all of the women you see here (and many more that aren’t featured), the future is a lot brighter.


Participants are Becky Benson · Blanche Benson-Yoshida · Pam Burridge ·Mary Carlston · Lisa Carulli · Jeannie Chesser · Gail Couper · Sheri Crummer · Nancy Emerson · Chelsea Georgeson-Hedges · Joey Hamasaki · Gwyn Haslock · MaryAnne Hayes · Betty Heldreich · Prue Jeffries · Ethel Kukea-Harrison · Josette Lagardere · Mary Lou McGinnis-Drummy · Duline McGough · Pauline Menczer · Nancy Nelson · Sandy Ordille · Patti Paniccia · Cher Pendarvis · Brenda Scott Rogers · Sophia Tiaré-Bartlow · Judy Trim · Sharron Weber · Vicki Williams (Flaxman) · Candice Woodward

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© Surfing Heritage and Culture Center | Poster of the exhibition Under the radar

Did you know ? 

By Alexandre ABBADI

Surfing was not invented in Hawaii but in Peru!

Certainly, in 1778, when the Europeans arrived in Hawaii, surfing was already part of their culture, but only because they had already traveled to Peru on one of their voyages, like the brave sailors they have always been. and that they would have then adopted this discipline in its culture, incredibly adapted to its coasts and its sea currents

The first surfing championship in history was held in 1928.

The Pacific Coast Surfriding Championship was organized by the 12 members of the local surf club from California (USA), who managed to organize the first surf tournament in history in Corona Mar.

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© Ishan | The force of the ocean | Malé, Maldive


Byron Bay and the Gold Coast are two seemingly opposite Australian surf towns. But beneath the surface they are inextricably linked to a multi-billion dollar industry which thrives on the commodification of the surfing lifestyle. With their populations swelling, resources draining, and housing prices going through the roof, where do these two towns go from here? Where does surfing go from here?


Under the Sun is a 16mm documentary shot in Byron Bay and the Gold Coast and features incredible surfing from Dave Rastovich, Beau Young, Nat Young and a handful of others as it explores the roots of commercialism that are now so entrenched in surf culture. Be prepared for a dark and compelling narrative amidst beautiful imagery and a kick ass custom soundtrack.

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By Alexandre ABBADI

The middle empire is heading for the surf

In China, surfing is now a popular sport that makes young people dream. The Chinese authorities have therefore decided to make it a tourist argument. The practice of surfing is developing on the island of Hainan, a Chinese island in southern China, off the Vietnamese coast. We can ask ourselves the question if in a few years Chinese surfers could integrate the best surfers on the planet and win the biggest competitions.

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© Zhengkui Li | The Hainan spot

By Matthieu SANTAL 

Editorial choice

By Alexander Haro
Watch Kai Lenny Surf Maxing Jaws the Day After the Eddie Swell

Youtube Channel : Surfers of Hawaii
January Highlights - Pipeline

Kieran Pander
Smart watches and artificial waves: surfing enters high-tech era

Frederick Dreier
The New Surf Film ‘Savage Waters’ Is About More than Riding Waves

Matt Growcoot
Surf Photographer Questions Beach Drones: ‘They Make a lot of Noise’

The last image

Marc Winter
28 April 2020

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© Marc Winter | Between heaven and earth | Costa da Caparica, Portugal

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