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Why Supporting the New Website is Important to us all?

1. Because we are a social 
Unlike the former website, the new website gives you the possibility to exchange with other members of the Surf Blurb through Facebook comments (see image below).

Under each article, the new website gives you the ability to express your feelings. You become an integral part of the Surf Blurb, without sending any email to the editor.

All premium members will also be able to see your comments.

2. Because we are independent
As an individual living in a modern society we all want to be independent.

By subscribing to the new website, you have more control over your premium membership.

You will have your own account (Facebook, Google or Surf Blurb), where you can set up your profile picture, and safely save your card information without assistance. 

Save your credit and debit card details, so you can checkout faster when a new item is added to the marketplace.

3. Because we enjoy helping others
The Surf Blurb helped me to meet the most influential surfers and top researchers in the field of surf history. 

In addition, it has kept the stoke in me for many years, and encouraged me to fulfill one of my biggest goal: to become a Ph.D. in Sociology of Surf History. 

Ph.D. Jeremy Lemarie

Editor of the Surf Burb & author of Surfing: A History of Gliding

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Photo by Guy Kawazaki on Unsplash



Cover of “Aloha” magazine

December 1924

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DeSoto Brown

The Historian of the Bishop Museum

As this photo (labeled “Christmas in Hawaii”) shows, you really can swim and surf at Waikiki on Christmas Day.

Behind these three seated tourists and the Hawaiian man with the solid wood board is the horizontal structure of the Moana Hotel pier.

From this pier, and the roofed pavilion at its end, you could watch surfers pass by below you in the shallow water on small waves.

Numerous photos and movies were taken from this spot, often showing beachboys waving or clowning around for their audience on the pier.

This ended when the pier was demolished in 1930, and it was never replaced. No structure like this could ever get permission to be built today.

“Aloha” magazine was published by the Matson Navigation Company for employees as well as frequent travelers who had traveled from San Francisco to Hawaii via Matson. It appeared from 1920 to 1928.


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Anna Trent Moore

Bud Browne Film Archives

Film Screening of The Essence 

Filmed by Bud Browne | Produced by Bud Browne Film Archives

Film Screening of The Essence at the Maui Art and Cultural Center on January 10, 2019. Order Tickets at 242-SHOW (7469) or

After the screening, we will talk story following the film with Kai Lenny, Archie Kalepa, Paige Alms, and Andrea Moller. 

Filmed by the father of the surf film genre, Bud Browne, The Essence evocatively shares the beauty of surfing while pondering the reason why we surf.

Beautifully produced with archival footage from the Bud Browne Film Archives, it showcases over fifty of surfing's greatest legends, among the likes of George Downing, Buzzy Trent, Gerry Lopez, and Duke Kahanamoku.

A celebration of the sport and the generations who defined it, it captures the pure joy and mystery of riding waves, through the eyes of surfing history, captured by Bud Browne.

Included in the film is the first day that Honolua Bay was filmed in 1963.


Frame Grab of "The Essence" | Courtesy of Anna Trent Moore


Bud Browne | Courtesy of Anna Trent Moore

Tom 'Pohaku' Stone

Makahiki Kuilima

Itʻs time for Makahiko Kuilima, on January 12, 2019. This is our traditional celebration of ʻo Lonoikamakahiki!

If you want to be part of or participate in our living traditions and cultural history, then you need to here.

If you ever wanted to experience the tradition of heʻehōlua (sliding across rock), this would be at Turtle Bay Resort.

There is the only place in Hawaiʻi that has a working traditional rock slide constructed for this Makahiki. We have made it bigger and better.

Come share the aloha! There is so much more to our living Hawaiian traditions.

For an Interview with Tom 'Pohaku' Stone on He'eholua: Hawaiian Sledding


Pacific Longboarder

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Australian Magazine

“Fictional Discharge” | Surfing by Trenton Tarpits – BarfRake

3 minutes and 30 seconds from Florida. Edit by Sam Aills. Filmed by John Massey, Merrick Cunningham, Nick Gunter, Luke Kothera


A journey in search of adventures, unexplored shores, empty waves in the Mediterranean most secluded places living with almost zero carbon footprint.

This is a surf-film about our small Ocean, the cradle of civilization and a reflection on living a simple lifestyle in symbiosis with nature.

The boats together with the Onde Nostre Crew traveled the Mediterranean Sea following Ulisse's journey with surfers, sailors, free divers, musicians, artists.

The film is a tale of friendship and nature which speaks to all lovers of the sea.

A modern Odyssey in the search of freedom and waves but also a testimony to our love for the sea and to document the most hidden seas of the Mediterranean. 


This film is the story of a moment, of the people who live from one moment to the next and can relish the beauty of an instant.

The film unfolds in tales of adventure so that finally, as in Onde Nostre's motto: "We*ll be able to tell our spectatorship: 'Look where I brought you'.'

As surfers, we tend to stay open to the world around us. The art of wave-riding is truly a pursuit, a pilgrimage of sorts that takes the participant from naive groms to seasoned and sometimes jaded experts, from internet surfers to globe-trotting travelers.

The surfer quickly learns the need to follow the weather and tides, to find the direction of the swell on a map and chase the far-reaching corners of the globe in hopes of finding that magical, fleeting moment of bliss -- the perfect wave.


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Glenn Hening

Founder of the Surfrider Foundation
& co-founder of the Groundswell Society

Waves of Warning

Chapter 28 - Crosscurrents at Ka’unua | Part 1

Download Chaprer



The forces of Nature are immutable - as are the forces of human nature. From previous chapters we know what Nature can do.

But in Part 1 of Cross Currents at Ka’unua we are concerned with the people who are now setting course to the climax events that will soon take place at the sacred reef of the sea people.

But the challenges of human nature are no less powerful than the ocean’s waves. David Helmares must summon all his inner strengths while voyaging to the reef.


And from the other end of the world, Heath Larson, Cheryl Corlund, and the team resurrected from the collapse of Wavelife International are now fully aware of the opportunity to redeem themselves - though now in light of the fatal disaster at the reef.

Please note that in the original printing of Waves of Warning, this chapter was divided into sections that focused on the various characters as they headed towards their encounter at the sacred reef.

For ease of reading we’ve combined the first two sections into this installment.


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Tom Keck


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Forwarded Topics


Jean Pierre Banville

Contributor to the Surf Blurb

Allen Kukel

Sea Of Clouds Leads Project To Nominate California Beach Associated With African American Heritage To The National Register Of Historic Places

The Value Of Owning More Books Than You Can Read

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Surf-Riders of Hawaii | Centennial Edition + First Bibliography

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U.S. | The World Stormrider Surf Guide | 2018 XL Edition Signed

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Surfing: A History of Gliding from the first Wave to the Beach Boys

[In French]
(1.200 copies sold)

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Editor's Pick

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Ph.D. Jeremy Lemarie

Editor of the Surf Blurb

An Academic Look

This paper has been published more than 20 years ago, but it is still a very good introduction to the sensitive topic of surf localism. 

Free access on ResearchGate

Jack Robinson Goes Absolutely Next-Level In This 5-Minute Edit

Surfers brave monster Mavericks waves, despite no competition​

British Surfer Tom Butler Thinks He Set a New Record for Biggest Wave Ever Ridden

"Certain Death" Warning Ignored by World's Best Big-Wave Surfers
Amp Session | Mavericks

Mundaka | The Basque Jewel


The Last image

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David Pu'u

Surf Photographer

December 18, 2018
We all love it when the NPAC comes alive!


Donators & Contributors

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Mahalo to Donors & Premium Subscribers to the New Surf Blurb Project

Mahalo nui loa to those who make the Surf Blurb possible through their contributions.

Send contributions to

Stéphane Bénassi,

Alexandre Bruget,

Timothy De La Vega,

Sandy Hall,

Ji Jie,

Anne Raulin.

Please donate or get the premium subscription of the Surf Blurb for $24.99 / year. We will ask you a billing address once we receive payment

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