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A Word

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Jeremy Lemarie

The editor of the Surf Blurb

A Photo from the Surf Exhibit

in Bordeaux

I have a few pieces left to show you from the Surf Exhibit in Bordeaux. Here is one more this week.


"Urban Dream," Original artwork by Pascal Peris. Photo by Jeremy Lemarie at the Surf Exhibit, in Bordeaux (2019). 




Cover of “Aloha” magazine, 1920

A small canoe surfs towards shore in an artist’s view of Waikiki. In real life, Diamond Head would not be so far in the backdrop  as it appears here.


Canoe surfing happens much closer to it, particularly because most of those who go on such rides are tourists who are staying in hotels nearby. This has been true for probably about 100 years by now. It’s surfing for people who can’t surf on a board by themselves.

In the far distance, a steamship can be seen on the horizon, since this digest-sized magazine was published by the Matson Navigation Co. of San Francisco.

Matson distributed this publication to its employees and a selection of its regular passengers – and perhaps travel agencies – from 1920 to 1928. Its vessels traveled the Pacific Ocean, eventually going all the way to Australia after 1926. 

Matson no longer promotes travel to the Hawaiian Islands as it ended passenger service in 1970. It does, however, still carry the majority of cargoes to Hawaii today.

DeSoto Brown

The Historian of the Bishop Museum

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Geoff Cater

founder & admin of

George Greenough:

Surf Mat Survey, 1977

The first entry in a four-page design feature titled Australian Unorthodox: The Religion of Oz Design.

Published three months after Nick Carroll's article on Simon Anderson's Thruster in Tracks Number 125, Dougal Walker notes the rapid application of the design by shapers such as Ronnie Woodward at Hot Buttered Surfboards and other top riders, including Tom Carroll and Mike Newling.


Courtesy of Geoff Cater


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Jeff Robertson

President of the Vintage Surfboard Collector Club

Dana Point Vintage & Maker's Redo Market

There are still a few setup spaces available for the Dana Point redo market on August 25th!  

If you are considering splitting a spot with somebody, now you don't have to. Spaces of 10'x10' are now available to setup for just $50 (instead of $100 for a larger space). 

If you'd like to lock down a setup space for this event, at this new smaller size and affordable rate of just $50, please visit the redo market website to reserve a spot (  

Let's make this an event to remember!   

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Persia Bravin

Riding The (Virtual) Waves

As surfers, we all have bad days. Maybe it’s flat out there with no waves in sight, or perhaps you have just risen with the sun to paddle out in peace at your secret surf spot… only to find it overrun with every surfer within 300 miles.


Or the worst: you just snapped that new board in half, making you more aggro than usual. There will always be days where you are unable to be out surfing - but what if you could get your fix simply by switching on your PC?

Within the virtual world of Second Life™ exists a thriving surf scene, with beaches, boards and thousands of active ‘surfers’ that regularly take to the pixel waves.
“Second Life has dozens of beaches and virtual surfing spots that are a blast to explore,” explains Brett Linden, Director of Marketing at Second Life.


“The virtual world is filled with people who share a passion for surfing culture, lifestyle and community - even if they aren't still active in the sport outside the virtual world.” 

Many SL surfers take part in the sport away from the screen in their real lives too, but the beauty of SL surfing is that anyone can do it: just create an avatar and within minutes you too could be surfing the virtual big blue.


All content in the world is created by the community, including surfing items such as the surf waves made by Marina Bay and surf beaches including ‘Surfer’s Bay VIP’ owned by Duncan Blackburn.


“We have two large surf beaches with surfable waves and free boards so anyone can join SL and then come here to surf or socialize,” he says. 

There is a very real sense of a strong surf community within this virtual world too, as Tauri Tigerpaw, owner of SL’s own surfing magazine ‘SurfWatch’ confirms: “SL surfing is all about the vibe and if you've surfed in real life, you can use the visual imagery of virtual reality and a little imagination and almost feel you're in that space on the water, in the spray, hearing sea gulls and hanging around the fire pit on the beach with your crew having some beer.

The democratic nature of surfing online means that anyone can take part, no matter where you are in the world. Some of the best SL surfers are women, such as Leanne Mordue, who says: “It’s a great place to be if I have a lot to think about, it calms the mind and creates a sense of peace.

I can really chill out and focus on nothing but the surf, it’s an amazing feeling.” So, if those real-life waves are giving you a hard time, log on, zone out and try the virtual breaks instead.

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Courtesy of Gween Marech

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Courtesy of Gween Marech

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Courtesy of Gween Marech

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Courtesy of Gween Marech

Marina Bay | Second Life by Gween Marech

Pacific Longboarder

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Australian Magazine

Kristy Murphy and her twin-fin fish, ripping Costa Rica

Surfer: Kristy Murphy
Music: Nano

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The Surf Network
the largest collection of surf video online

Bundjalung (2015)


Bundjalung (2015)

Courtesy of Opper Films

Trailer of Bundjalung (2015) on Youtube


Bundjalung has some of the most perfect and famous surf spots in the world, but very few people have ever heard the name of this aboriginal nation that holds a tragic and untold History.


Snapper Rocks, Kirra, Lennox Heads, Angourie, are only a glimpse of the numerous perfect waves that this Bundjalung Country has.

But not only perfect waves, this country has a beautiful culture that struggles to survive. Filmed during 2 years along the two hundred kilometers of coastline in the Bundjalung Country, this documentary portrays epic surf sessions as well as the untold story and culture of this country.



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Menehune Art Contest deadline Approaches

The Menehune Art Contest deadline is this Friday August 9. Time to get busy and put the finishing touches on your masterpiece and become part of The Menehune contest history.  


Cash prizes to 1st ,2nd, 3rd so you can become Rich as well as Famous - or well on your way...

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Jeremy Lemarie


Partly primitive: Discursive Constructions of the Domestic Surfer

Abstract: Various studies highlight the importance of discourses in consumer culture, yet fewer explore the historical development of these phenomena. This paper examines a long-view of the meanings and uses of primitive discourse in consumer culture.

An investigation of the changing representation of indigenous Hawaiian surfing within Euro-American culture between the late-eighteenth and mid-twentieth century illustrates the ambiguous and malleable articulations of marketplace discourses.

We find that over the course of this period, primitive discourses are expressed differently by changing figurations of social actors in manners that serve colonial, celebratory, contemplative and countercultural intentions.

Finally, we find that the construction of surfing as a partly primitive marketplace culture combines these discourses to offer consumers a distinct and domesticated theatre of liberatory othering.

Illustrating the changing possibilities and potentials for otherness in consumer culture, this paper reaffirms that contemporary marketplace cultures have complex historical roots.

These legacies justify extended contextual investigations. Implications concerning representation and the politics of marketplace primitivism are discussed.

Editor's Pick

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Koa Smith: 3rd Person Barrel in Africa

Shorebreak Madness - Part 2 - Clark Little Job Andre Botha Jmv

The Last image

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David Pu'u

Surf Photographer

August 4, 2019

There is no place like home. #davidpuuphotography #oceanohana


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