Interview of Alain Gardinier by Jean Pierre Banville
Introduction
Alain Gardinier was born in Biarritz a long time ago and started surfing when he was twelve years old. He wrote hundreds of articles about surfing, which one of his many passions.He launched Generation Glisse (a weekly show) and wrote books about surf culture and surf history such as Surf Collection, Born to Surf, Surf Culture, Les Tontons Surfeurs and a biography of Miki Dora.
And then, this year, a polar, his first, that shows North Korea at its best.
He worked as an assistant producer for the movie Industrie, he was a photographer, he wrote biographies, he was a journalist at NewLook, Glamour, Rock and Folk and others.
He wrote about music, all kind of music, he was and still is a TV host, produced TV series and met most of the stars alive now and a lot who are not with us anymore.
Alain Gardinier was born in Biarritz a long time ago and started surfing when he was twelve years old. He wrote hundreds of articles about surfing, which one of his many passions.He launched Generation Glisse (a weekly show) and wrote books about surf culture and surf history such as Surf Collection, Born to Surf, Surf Culture, Les Tontons Surfeurs and a biography of Miki Dora.
And then, this year, a polar, his first, that shows North Korea at its best.
He worked as an assistant producer for the movie Industrie, he was a photographer, he wrote biographies, he was a journalist at NewLook, Glamour, Rock and Folk and others.
He wrote about music, all kind of music, he was and still is a TV host, produced TV series and met most of the stars alive now and a lot who are not with us anymore.
Front cover of "Les Tontons Surfeurs" [The Surf Uncles]
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Alain, you seem to be a talented man : you reinvented yourself numerous times along the years. Have you an interest that you never followed?
I feel that t I do not know how to focus on a single thing! I wish I would have done some mechanics, to tinker about. I wish I surfed Pipeline and wrote a bestseller. Now, it is interesting to see that there is surfing almost everywhere, from Alaska to Israel, Iran and Gaza. But, why has it been so long for surfing to be introduced in Europe? For instance, in France started in the late 50s with the ‘’Tontons Surfeurs’’, while it was practice elsewhere since the beginning of the 20th century? The time was not right, communications were very difficult and surfing was known in Hawai'i, in the mainland USA, in Australia and in South Africa. There were other countries too such as in Peru, following the trip of Carlos Dogny in Hawai'i in 1938. The French knew about surfing but they could not know about the shape and size of a board, its construction and if there was a fin under. It was very difficult to get details because you had to travel there or write a letter to somebody, but to whom? |
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Surfing created its own culture, which is a bit surprising considering that very few activities did the same to such extent. Do you know why?
Very few activities carries so many dreams, joy, images and sensations. It is easier to paint, draw or talk about surfing than to do the same for a game, like tennis or basketball. A big deal of it has to do with trips to idyllic surf spots that feeds one's imagination. In your books, you said you have known Miki Dora…we will talk about him later … who would be the known surfers that had the most fun living the surfing life? Dora’s life was not only fun but also full of stress, solitude and issues. I believe the one surfer who lived his ‘’surf life’’ to the hilt is also the one that is the most respectable: Gerry Lopez. You also write about Surf Music. How would you describe it? I would say instrumental, always the same, and quite boring at the end! Who would be the best surf band? Do you think this style is gone forever? I am not a fan of surf music but the theme of the Endless Summer by the Sandals will last forever. Around the world, hundreds of bands continue to play surf music and there are some Music Festivals going on every year. |
Front cover of "Miki Dora from Malibu to the Basques Coast"
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Front cover of "Ride the wild Surf"
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Since the movie Gidget, tons of surf movies have been released: do you have a favorite?
I like Point Break for the suspense, but honestly I am not an expert about surf movies. You know that surfing has its own superhero: the Silver Surfer. Can we hope for something else? I am not sure we need another superhero. Laird Hamilton maybe? You wrote quite a few books about surfing. What would you say about beginners surfers? Most of them are people who get attracted by this fantastic activity and they are right to do so. What is so fascinating about surfing that you want to write yet another book about it? Because you are writing another book… The fact that every surfer has his own life and reasons to surf and then the fact that surfing is new for every generation. That is the bottom line of my new book, a coffee table book around The Endless Summer movie – the DVD will be included in the book. It will be out in November. If you had one board, one spot and one surf music disk? A Tyler Hatzikian longboard at Jeffreys Bay with The Endless Summer. |
Are you a fan of micro cars and surf posters?
Yes, but I slowed down a bit. I sold my surf posters’ collection and my micro cars a few years ago. Now, I only keep a few objects that were very important to me.
Your latest book is on North Korea, do you think there is surfing in North Korea? If so, would you go?
There is surfing to be done in North Korea. I remember watching a few things on TV about it. But you could erase my name from the guest list if some of us where invited!
Yes, but I slowed down a bit. I sold my surf posters’ collection and my micro cars a few years ago. Now, I only keep a few objects that were very important to me.
Your latest book is on North Korea, do you think there is surfing in North Korea? If so, would you go?
There is surfing to be done in North Korea. I remember watching a few things on TV about it. But you could erase my name from the guest list if some of us where invited!
